Video Wednesday: Nepal Expedition
Expeditions are called expeditions for a reason…they’re a lot of work and there’s a ton involved. But the payoff can be huge. (even if you don’t summit)
I guess this could be a longer version of ‘Just Do It’ long before Nike came up with it. If you don’t know who Chuck Pratt is, check out the book Camp 4. But don’t read about climbing this weekend….just do it.
Not a bad place to start if you can’t find a partner or want to work on your project. This can also get you familiar with how to solo lead too (but that requires a butt load of more prep).
When Tommy Caldwell or Mayan Smith-Gobat work a free climb high on El Capitan, the crux may be finding a belayer willing to put in days of duty in an isolated and exposed location. Often, the solution is to go alone, rehearsing the key pitches by solo toproping. Whether you’re an active first ascensionist or just want to do some laps after work without a partner, solo toproping is a handy technique to add to your repertoire.
Still hoping to get out there in June. Didn’t realize this is what the trail down from Moonlight Buttress was like. Sweet.
Angel’s Landing at Zion National Park is one of the scariest and narrowest hikes in the U.S. With dropoffs at every turn, some plummeting over 1,000 feet straight down, this climb isn’t for the faint of heart. But for those willing to face their fears, they’re rewarded at the summit (5,790 ft high) with one of the most spectacular views on the planet.
Found this article in my archive and thought I’d link to it since this is the time of year some good climbing can be had in Yosemite. (before the crowds come) It was surprising to me how much trash these guys took off The Nose of El Cap and how much more they estimate is still there. I know on Salathe Wall there was a decent ammount (none left by me) but it didn’t seem anything close to this.
At least some folks decided to do something about it and are now finding decades old trash and bringing it down. Good on these guys for giving back and putting in some serious work to do so.
I find myself circling back to Yvon Chouinard’s quote. Although climbers are physically ascending something tangible, there’s also a metaphysical transformation taking place, leading toward spiritual growth. However, this process is compromised if we disregard our environment.
As a California native, I take a kind of sick joy in reading about 5.12+ climbers coming to a place like Joshua Tree and getting a quick slap in the face climbing a lowly 5.10c like “Bearded Cabbage”. (awesome climb by the way) I mentioned the same thing last week regarding Yosemite. I think you’ll like this write up from Splitter Choss as well.
“I SUCK!” I screamed, slapping the monzogranite as I dangled from a small Stopper for the umpteenth time in five days. The frustrated yell faded across the desert like a stray gunshot.
Before the trip, I was climbing as strong as ever, sending everything from steep limestone to Wingate cracks and boulders.
Watch out for those bears.
This is the Hierarchy of Camping. If you sleep outdoors, you are on it. And you look up to someone, unless you are a bear, because you are at the top. Or John Muir or Kennewick Man, because you have been dead for 100 or thousands of years, respectively. Your attitude toward those beneath you on the hierarchy is up to you, of course.
Cutting your teeth for the first time on Yosemite granite is an eye opening experience. I’m glad to hear that even strong climbers like Joe Kinder have similar experiences to what I went through.
Zodiac is hard… trust me. It has only been climbed twice and I now understand why. The whole experience was filled with stimulation for me. From simply being in Yosemite to the hiking, climbing, and jugging. I am still a baby with this stuff, but I am eager to do more. Even though I was stressed, uneasy, and totally out of my element so many times I kinda liked it. The style of climbing is far from my favorite, but I have SO much respect for it now and I think that is what I am drawn to. Hats off to anyone that has free’d El Capitan. That is a huge feat to me and I have so much respect for it now.
I can never stress enough to folks how important it is to learn to use any belay device properly. Sometimes the grigri gets taken for granted because it ‘auto catches’ a fall, but I’ve had friends who were dropped because their belayer wasn’t paying attention to how they set up their grigri.
The release of the Petzl Grigri in 1991 marked a major step in the evolution of belay devices: Here was a device that assisted significantly in catching a fall, and also allowed a belayer to hold and lower his partner with little effort. Belay slaves rejoiced, but incorrect use of this newfangled device began to result in accidents. Petzl has made an effort to educate users, but the bad habits of devotees are difficult to break, and with the release of the Grigri 2 in 2011, it’s more important than ever to learn (and teach) proper techniques for this ubiquitous device.